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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.